Day 19- August 26th- Left Lee’s Ferry in Vermillion Cliffs, Arizona in beautiful weather again to the North rim of the Grand Canyon.  An 80 mile ride up out of the canyon and onto the plateau at the North side of the canyon.  The road initially climbed back and forth through switchchbacks as it literally climbed out of the canyon on ledges up the cliffs.  It was cool out but, a nice day.  The roads were smooth with no traffic.  Once over the top of the canyon wall, I was on what was labled on the map as the “plateau”.  It was the opposite of the red stone canyon that I just left.   A rolling pine forest and meadows for 60 miles around to be added as  another excellent place to ride!

The North rim of the Grand Canyon is much less visited by tourists than the South as it only has one 40 mile access road to reach it, and nothing much else around for another 50 miles from the beginning of the access road.   It was well worth the ride.

I got to the North rim of the Grand Canyon at about 9:00 am.  There was a sign and a parking lot but,  you could not see the canyon.  You followed a path from the lot through some scrubby  pines and small cabins and suddenly, you walked into the sunlight and the canyon spread out before you.

HOLY #@$%!!!!! Sorry,  but I am being honest.  That is what I said to myself.  The canyon walls were 1000 ft high+/-. colored layers of rock and sandstone and the canyon spread almost as far as the eye could see.  I got nervous just looking off the edge.  There was a walkway that extended out about a 1/4 mile onto a section that jutted out into the canyon.  At times it was as wide as a sidewalk and if you fell to either side you were just Toast!  For a slip of the foot would leave you falling straight down with a few ledges to bounce off of. After 7000 miles on the road, now I was nervous.  I am not real keen on heights. At the end of this walk you could look into the canyon in almost every direction. This was one of those places again, you did not want to leave. After soaking it in for a couple of hours, I had to.

I back tracked across northern Arizona down from the plateau to the now familiar deserts again and into southern Utah. I wanted to visit Monument canyon. I have been in the Navajo reservation for 600 miles now. just South of the Utah border I had an experience that showed me the negative stereotype of the American indian.  Poor and drunk. Let me say that I have found it not to be true as everyone I have met was working a job, friendly and genuine. My whole trip aside from an overcafenated Oregon gas station attendant has let me completely relax my defenses. I stopped at a gas station, filled up, grabbed a drink and called Ellen because I had phone service. (wow). I was off to the side of a busy truckstop talking on the phone and not looking around when the next thing I know I have an old drunk in my face telling me that he needs me to help him out and give him gas money. He was begging but with a younger 6 foot 300 lb drunk indian behind him looking at me as if to say “give the old one your money”. I told Ellen I had to go and told the guy I could give him a couple of bucks. The Big guy moved a little closer. I had prepared for this mentally before I left home but got too relaxed over the trip. I kept loose money in my front pockets. I Hid my wallet and had a gas card from my father that was inactive. I read that if you are in a situatuan like this and the people were not determined to fight you for something, that creating the illusion that they got all you have is the best way out.

I emptied my front pockets and said “look brother, I’ve got 8 bucks. It’’s all yours.” the big guy said “yeah, so how do you get gas?” I said “a gas card but I need that.” I gave the old guy the eight bucks and walked to the side of the bike and grabbed my helmet by the chin piece. (a very good weapon if necessary) The big guy got the hint and the old guy was happy with the 8 bucks. I was glad the big guy decided there probably wasn’t enough more to gain to make it worth a major disturbance just out of site of the busy gas pumps. They left. So did I!

I have to say for someone traveling alone I just got too relaxed because of the rest of my experience to date. I was stupid to pull off out of sight. And even though I have seen how depressed much of this area is, I did not register how desperate some of these people are. Stupid. Lucky. Blessed.

I have a lot more to tell you about this day alone but am getting the librarian’s boot again. I will continue the next time.

Mick